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What is Velvet leather? 1.8 mm napped cowhide, soft with a supple drape

August 6, 2026 · Rémy Carriat · 2 readers
What is Velvet leather? 1.8 mm napped cowhide, soft with a supple drape

Velvet is a 1.8 mm chrome-tanned cowhide with a buffed nap, soft with a supple drape. Identification, why water-repellent spray is required, comparison with Nubuck — see available hides at Kit Leather.

Velvet is a chrome-tanned cowhide buffed to a fine nap, with a standard thickness of 1.8 mm — soft to the touch with a supple drape. This leather line comes from tannery Rémy Carriat (France, established 1927); like any napped leather, it requires a water-repellent spray before use. Well suited for soft bags and footwear.

How to identify Velvet leather

To the touch, the nap is finer and softer than other buffed leathers, and the hide drapes heavily. Note that the leather has a nap direction: rubbing your hand in opposite directions shifts the shade between lighter and darker — a sure sign of buffed napped leather, not a coated finish.

Why leather crafters favor Velvet leather

  • Soft, fine nap: finer and more supple than Nubuck, offering a pleasant hand feel and a naturally soft bag silhouette.
  • Balanced 1.8 mm substance: enough body for an unlined bag panel to hold its shape while staying soft, without requiring stiff reinforcement.
  • Warm, upscale look: the napped surface has an inviting texture, well suited for soft bags and footwear.

Drawbacks of Velvet leather

The first thing to keep in mind: the napped surface has no protective topcoat, so applying a water-repellent spray before use is mandatory, with periodic reapplication as the treatment wears off. Additionally, glue squeeze-out mats the nap permanently, requiring very clean gluing; heavy burnishing or hot ironing will crush and shine the surface; and being chrome-tanned, it will not develop a patina. At 1.8 mm, multi-layer folds in wallets can become bulky, so multi-compartment wallets require edge skiving. If you prefer a smooth grain that requires no protective spray, see Togo leather.

How Velvet differs from Nubuck and Taurillon Clemence

All three leather lines come from tannery Rémy Carriat. Compared to Nubuck leather (also buffed): Velvet is thinner, finer, and drapes more softly — suitable for soft bags; Nubuck is thicker and firmer — suitable for footwear and load-bearing goods. Both require protective spray and must be cut following the nap direction. Compared to Taurillon Clemence leather (same tannery, but with a large pebbled grain): Taurillon features a raised grain that conceals scratches, while Velvet offers a napped surface — choose according to the aesthetic you want.

What to make with Velvet leather

Best suited for soft-structured bags (supple drape, 1.8 mm provides body without stiffness), footwear (fine nap, though being softer than Nubuck, it suits soft-structured shoes rather than footwear requiring firm structure), and covers or light-use indoor goods. Avoid making items exposed frequently to rain unless you are prepared for regular maintenance.

Does Velvet leather require a water-repellent spray?

Yes, absolutely. The napped surface has no protective topcoat, so water drops soak in immediately and leave dark water spots, while dust gets trapped at the base of the fibers and is hard to remove. Apply a waterproofing spray formulated for napped leather before putting the item into use, and reapply periodically as the coat wears off over time. After spraying, the nap retains its original hand feel, except water beads up instead of soaking in.

How does Velvet leather differ from Nubuck?

From the same tannery and both buffed cowhides, but Velvet is thinner (standard 1.8 mm thickness), has a finer, softer surface, and a more supple drape — suitable for soft bags; Nubuck is thicker and firmer, so it suits footwear and load-bearing items. Both require water-repellent protection and have a directional nap, meaning all pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction.

Choosing & buying Velvet leather at Kit Leather

Kit sells Velvet leather by the hide — each hide is unique, showing the exact area, thickness, color, and price of that specific piece. To purchase Velvet leather, click View available Velvet hides in stock → to select your hide, or message via Zalo for advice on the right hide for your project.

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