Nubuck

Nubuck is chrome-tanned cowhide with the grain side buffed to a fine, velvet-like nap—more durable than suede, but requires a water-repellent spray right from the start.

To the touch, you will feel a short, even nap—warm rather than cold like smooth finished leather. Whichever hide you choose, remember it has a nap direction: brushing with or against the nap produces two different shades, so keep all pattern pieces oriented in the same direction when cutting, or adjacent panels will look mismatched as if they were cut from different leathers.

This leather makes beautiful shoes and bags; its soft drape gives finished items a natural shape. It is also well suited for sleeves and desk notebook covers—indoor goods rarely exposed to rain. If you need more support and structure for footwear, consider a thicker hide; if you want a softer drape for bags, choose a thinner one.

One thing not to overlook: the napped surface has no protective topcoat, so apply a water-repellent spray before crafting rather than waiting until the leather gets dirty, and reapply periodically as the coating wears off. During assembly, apply glue very neatly—glue spilling onto the nap will permanently mat the fibers, with no way to undo it. Because it is chrome-tanned, it holds its original color and does not develop a patina over time like veg-tan leather.

Learn more: what is Nubuck leather? → or browse other chrome-tanned leathers.